Limping politically, Greece will frustrate you with its capricious rules and haphazard neglect, but with the turn of a corner or a kind gesture, it will grab your eye and heart, and hold you forever.
Where ever you think the Elgin Marbles belong, Bernard Tschumi’s Acropolis Museum is a triumph of architectural design and historical interpretation. Seeing ancient marble versions of the votive plaques I’d just bought at a nearby church stopped me in my tracks. For an instant, I was thrown into the past and my little souvenirs jangled with new significance.
There are a few more vacant storefronts on Ermou Street, and even if the old homes in the Plaka are expensive, there are still some that are alarmingly and picturesquely collapsing.
Every taverna serves their horiatiki, which are different, but somehow the same, and which become an addiction if you’re in Greece long enough.
The fish is startlingly fresh, are curled with rigor mortis.
And the spit, used to turn the Easter lamb, even when cold and still, offers a moment of poetry.
If you want some of Greece’s poetry for yourself, check out this culinary tour.