Fruit, Recipes that Celebrate Nature

book cover

Fruit, Recipes that Celebrate Nature by Bernadette Worndl, Smith Street Books 2018, hardback $35.00, 240 pages

Our families don’t always cross the finish line in the span of one generation. But each generation passes on to the next the fruits of their labor.

Julian Castro

Fruit is such a gift–seasonal and treasured sweetness, no wonder they serve as a metaphor for success and life’s good things.

And when they are in season, I rarely make it home from the farm market without sampling the berries, or from the orchard without trying an apple or a peach.

When it is fresh and ripe, grown in a season that is not too wet and not too cold, fruit is transcendent.

But why not gild the lily, relish the kumquat, strudel the apple, sorbet the citrus, pickle the plum, or stew the rhubarb? This book has all those wonderful sweet things to do with fruit, but, Worndl finds appealing new takes. Tiny pears are baked into a ginger cake and served with coffee cream, poached quince add warmth to a Negroni, and blueberries are distilled into a liqueur.

The book was created by an Austrian based team of author, editor, photographer, and designer, so you’ll find traditional yeast-risen buns filled with plum jam and served under a blizzard of powdered sugar. Some of the recipes, like an apricot strudel call for Quark–a fresh cheese, and other ingredients like greengages and elderflowers are rarely seen in American markets. But a resourceful cook will make replacements, tiny yellow plums for the greengages or chamomile for the elderflower.

World also  moves beyond sweets and tradition and uses fruit to create depth and spark in  savory dishes. Dishes like Nettle and Cherry Pizza, Braised Dijon Rabbit with Blueberries, and Roast Chicken with Greengages are intense, intriguing, and cookable.

This is an elegantly produced book, elevating fruit beyond childish sweetness, that will inspire you to do more than just snack from the pint of berries.

 

 

About Appetite for Books

read, cook, eat, repeat
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